Skeletonisation

A brief look at Vacheron Constantain openworked watches, from neo-vintage to current catalogue

*Traditionnelle self-winding openworked, ref. 43178,*

“Is this really white gold?”, as I rationalise the weightlessness of this 38mm x 6.82mm case. Watching how light permeates through my Traditionnelle self-winding openwork ref. 43178, I start to understand Skeletonisation a little better.

When talking about openworked dials, we have to talk about Vacheron Constantin, who has very much embraced skeletonisation as part of their DNA. Let’s have a look at some examples through the years.

1964 - First skeletonised wristwatch

*First skeletonised wristwatch based on Cal. 1003, pic credit: watchprosite*

Before some of you eagle-eyed readers cut me up, let me clarify: the first ever skeletonised wristwatch wasn’t engraved. It’s the year 1977 where we see Vacheron unleashing their full artistic flair, converting Cal. 1003 into Cal. 1003 SQ - squelette or skeleton.

1977 - Squelette

Skeletonisation is about hollowing out as much watch, dial and movement, as possible. Since everything is exposed for our indulgence (or inspection), it has to be flourished by hand, fully engraved to perfection. This also marked the start of Vacheron’s serial production.

*all engraved golden bridge, pic credit: watchprosite*

To ensure there’s still legibility, a fine line is carved on the slim golden hands and filled with black lacquer, just like hour markers. Inspect closer and you’ll realise the hour markers aren’t totally straight, which in my view is forgivable and in fact a sign of it being human made.

Hold on a second, are you sure this is Vacheron? Where’s the logo?

1982 - Maltese Cross Barrel

To make sure Patek and AP can’t steal their wor… just kidding. With ref. 13012, Vacheron introduced the now iconic look - Maltese cut-out over the barrel with the company’s logo running around the tiny circumference. All hand carved, of course.

Ref. 13012 was also the first time Vacheron Constantin skeletonised a legendary self-winding movement - Calibre 1120 that’s based on JLC’s Cal 920. At this point, you’d have heard of the two base movements, the other being the manual wound Cal. 1003.

Tech Talk

A bit of geeky digression here, both 1120 and 1003 are actually based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s base movements. Thankfully, I’m not here to bore you, neither do I have the right qualifications to. But Jack Forster does, and you can check it out here: How Vacheron Constantin Is Keeping Two Classic Movements From Vanishing Off The Face Of The Earth

*Vacheron Cal. 1003 (left) is based off JLC’s Cal. 849 (right), pic credits: Hodinkee*

The TLDR is in Mr Forster’s last paragraph:

Extinction isn't always heralded by an earth-shattering kaboom and a fire in the sky. Sometimes it happens quietly, and when no one's looking.

Putting aside my admiration (and envy) of Mr Forster’s knack for weaving poetry out of words, I’ll attempt to make my own special mention for one more movement that Vacheron Constantin is keeping alive - Calibre 1142 / Lemania 2310. You can check that out in my previous article: Vacheron’s Chronographs Part II

1984 - Ref. 43032

For making it through that geeky read, here’s a sight for your sore eyes:

*Perpetual Calendar Openwork, watch belongs to: @ken.delugs*

I am very lucky to know a few collectors in my vicinity who share my passion for vintage Vacheron. One of them is Ken/founder of Delugs. His ref. 43032 in yellow gold is quite possibly one of the best neo-vintage perpetual calendar ever made. Just look at that translucent lapis lazuli moonphase glowing away.

The ultra-thin self-winding non-skeletonised perpetual calendar (let me catch my breath ref) ref. 43031 is a technical marvel on its own, measuring only 36mm dia x 8mm thin. All that is made possible by the venerable Cal.1120QP that we touched on earlier.

*Cal. 1120QP SQ, watch belongs to @ken.delugs*

No expense was spared, and no blank space was left un-engraved. My favourite detail of this movement has to be that maltese cross rotor. While other maisons also toyed with skeletonisation, Vacheron Constantin was, in my humble opinion, the only one seriously pursuing this art form.

1992 - Les Complications

This was a big year for Vacheron. Several watches were launched, each covering an aspect of haute horology: calendar, minute repeating, gem-setting, enamelling, tourbillon and engraving/skeletonisation. Ref. 30051 represented the last two categories proudly.

*Ref. 30051 in rose gold, pic credit: watchbox.com*

Ref. 30051 epitomised the essence of Skeletonisation - hollowing out base plates. Look at how much air space there is. I also have to add that Cal. 1760, tourbillon with power reserve is one of the most visually arresting movement that Vacheron has ever produced.

The power reserve at 12 is balanced by the tourbillon at 6. Surely you noticed that maltese-cross motif integrated into the tourbillon bridge? Flipping ref. 30051 around and you see the perfect symmetry of Cal. 1760 SQ.

*Fully engraved Cal. 1760SQ, pic credit: thekeystone*

The twin barrels dancing a pas de deux, while the tourbillon pirouettes along is one of the best horological performance any watch lover can witness.

With this openworked tourbillon, Vacheron Constantin staked their claim as one of the best address for skeletonisation. We continue to see this artistry executed in their Malte collection through late 90s to 2000s up until the current model - Traditionnelle.

2008 - Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar

With the birth of a new core collection (Traditionnelle), Vacheron had to anchor it with one pièce de résistance. Enter ref. 43172, Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openwork.

*Ref. 43172 in platinum, watch belong to my dear buddy, Max*

You might call it rehashing an old model from the 80s, and that’s a fair point. After all, the movement inside this ref. 43172 is Vacheron’s Cal. 1120QP SQ. In fact, with the updated size of 39mm, the case-to-movement ratio is a little skewed.

*Cal. 1120QP SQ, watch belongs to my buddy, Max*

But we don’t really buy watches based on facts, do we? We already know this is a handsome watch from pictures. The main clincher is strapping on this ref. 43172, feeling a reassuring weight thanks to its 39mm platinum case, reminding us that we’re wearing something very precious.

2009 - Traditionnelle Openwork Ref. 43178

While I occasionally indulge in having my mind blown, most days I enjoy simple things executed to glorious maximus. One such example is my 3-hands, time-only Traditionnelle ref. 82172 Collection Excellence Platine (CEP).

Imagine my pleasant surprise when I chance upon this Traditionnelle self-winding openwork ref. 43178.

*Traditionnelle Self-winding Openwork, ref. 43178*

As with the standard Traditionnelle ref. 82172, case diameter is at 38mm. But unlike the usual manual wound Cal. 4400, this ref. 43178 is powered by a self-winding movement. Yes, it’s the ultra-thin Cal.1120 that’s also beating inside those perpetual calendars we saw earlier, except those hav a Dubois-Depraz QP module stacked on top.

You can ignore all of the above and read this: it’s thin. At only 6.82mm height, this ref. 43178 is one of the slimmest watches I own. While I also enjoy the heft and engaging the gears of my manually wound CEP Traditionnelle, the convenience of having a self-winding watch has me reaching for this ref. 43178 more often.

Cal. 1120SQ

Like Jack Forster poignantly and eloquently put earlier, Cal. 1120 is simply one of the best self-winding movement ever developed, and featured in no less than all three of the holy trinity’s groundbreaking sports models of Royal Oak, Nautilus and 222.

Put this movement in the hands of Vacheron, and this is what you get:

Remember what I mentioned at the start? Squelette/skeletonising isn’t just about engraving, but hollowing out as much redundancy, while retaining enough structural integrity to support its intended functions. For me, ref. 43178 aced this balancing act.

Crossing from the 2010s and into a new decade, we see another skeletonised timepiece from Vacheron which also uses Cal. 1120. Again? It’s also a perpetual calendar. Not again? Unlike the two dress watches from before, this is a sports model. Let’s go Overseas.

Whether it’s a neo-vintage piece from 1984 like ref. 43032, or the something from year 2008, Traditionnelle QPSQ/ref. 43172, there’s nothing like the visual feast of a skeletonised perpetual calendar. How to up the ante then? Well…

2020 - Overseas Perpetual Calendar Openwork

I don’t normally use the word ‘Grail’ as it’s reserved for special moments and/or special watches. This ref. 4300V/SQ is grail, and make that a holy one since it has a (maltese) cross.

When Vacheron launched the Overseas III perpetual calendar (4300V) back in 2016, it already received much fanfare due to its ultra-thinness. At 8.1mm x 41.5mm diameter, it’s equal parts sporty and elegant. If you wanna know more, check out my previous article on Vacheron’s Calendar watches.

*My holy grail, ref 4300V/SQ. Thank you, Vacheron Constantin SG.*

With ref. 4300V/SQ Vacheron did what they do best - take an existing model or complication and reinterpreting it with wisdom and restraint. The Historiques 222 is one such example, oozing class in fully brushed yellow gold. The more recent Overseas Retrograde Moonphase is another; an otherwise ‘dressy’ complication elegantly integrated into a sports model. That’s exactly what they did with the skeletonised QP here.

It’s not difficult to extrapolate certain brands’ design trajectory, which is to say ‘I saw this skeleton QP coming’.

Alas, I was too conceited. Despite knowing its impending arrival, ref. 4300V/SQ blew my mind, and pieced it back together in the shape of a maltese cross.

*a maze of gears and jewels on the dial side, simply amazing.*

To aid legbility, the subdials have a solid blue track that ‘floats’ on the glass. We also see their signature 48-months full calendar display at 12 indicating the leap year. I thought it would’ve been nice to see a splash of red for the leap year as they did with ref. 43172/Traditionnelle, especially given the Overseas’ sporty nature.

Looking closer, I realise there’s not much squeletting or engraving going on this 4300V/SQ, at least not as much as the original ref. 43032. Turning the watch around and seeing Cal.1120QP SQ confirmed my admiration.

Cal 1120QP SQ

Aligned with a sportier and dare I say it… masculine aesthetics of Overseas, the brilliant design folks at Vacheron decided on a NAC finish on both skeletonised rotor and base plates. The resulting anthracite base lets the sparkling golden wheels and glimmering crystals shine through, a lovely juxtaposition.

Half a century ago in 1984, Vacheron already showed us what they can do with ref. 43032. Surely they could have done a fully flourished plate and rotor, cost notwithstanding. In this case, it’s what they chose NOT to do that makes this even more impressive.

There’s nowhere to hide, and lucky for Vacheron, they have nothing to hide either. Every single part is polished to a T, which is to say very Top. We see an interplay of black polish, perlage and brushed finish, along with fine bevelling on the edges.

As with all 4300V, the moonphase with its hand-painted constellations is my favourite detail, but this time it’s twice the viewing pleasure with a translucent bottom half, which is not something I can say about myself 🍑.

*my favourite detail of ref. 4300V/SQ - handpainted constellations on moondisc*

Once again, and big thank you to Vacheron Constantin Singapore for making my dream come true. Let us turn our eyes to one of the latest skeletonised watch from Vacheron Constantin.

2021 - Metiers D’Art Mecaniques Ajourées

Modern. That’s probably what you were thinking. Indeed, this ref. 82020 Mecaniques Ajourées (ajouré means open to daylight), is the first time Vacheron Constantin skeletonised their new in-house manual-wound Cal.4400.

*Metiers D’Art Mecaniques Ajourées, ref. 82020, pic credit: europeanwatchco*

First thing you notice is probably the burst of bright blue. The chapter ring is actually made of grand feu enamel, flowing like a river under the roman numeral hour markers. As we move from the circumference and towards the center, we see intricate fleurisanne engraving on all the bridges.

At the expense of some legibility, Vacheron decided to use a pair of skeletonised hands. What we get in return however, is a whole lot more visual enjoyment. I personally think it’s a great decision, seeing how it matches the aesthetics of the hour markers.

Cal. 4400SQ

Flip it around and you’ll see Cal.4400SQ in action. Although technically for skeletonised watches, you would have seen its movement even from the dial side. This is the same calibre as the one in their standard Traditionnelle ref. 82172 with a lot more holes. That’s why I’m no poet.

Jokes aside, this is the first time Vacheron skeletonised their Cal.4400, a movement that once received high praise from a certain independent watchmaker by the name of Voutilainen. Even from just looking, there’s a sense of completeness in the architecture.

At 40mm, ref.82020 Ajourée isn’t grotesquely large and actually quite coherent with modern aesthetics. I do secretly wish VC made a skeletonised Traditionnelle in 38mm. Speaking of wishes, here are some of my own thoughts.

My Perspective

Around this time of year, hype is building up to Watches & Wonder 2024. We start hearing some rumours and begin speculating what the brands will release. If I may be so cheeky, how about a skeletonised time-only Overseas in titanium, ref. 4520V TiSQ. Hey, at least I didn’t ask for a ref. 2000V Ti SQ, although an ultra-thin two-handed openworked Overseas would be pretty damn cool, no? ;)

Every maison has a call-to-fame card. It could be a complication combo like perpetual calendar chronograph (Patek) or an iconic octagonal case(AP), although not limited to one. What about Vacheron?

There are dandy designs like American 1921 and bull-horn lugs ala Cornes de Vache. For complications, it’s probably their triple calendar. I am however starting to think that Skeletonisation is also very Vacheron. After all, which other brand has consistently produced openworked wristwatch throughout the years? Perhaps Breguet, but that’s a topic for another day.

Seeing is believing so I’ll leave you with this final photo I took from Vacheron’s The Anatomy of Beauty exhibition in 2022.

*ref. 30030 in platinum, first produced in 1994.*

I’ll touch on repeaters next time. Till then and as always, I hope you had a happy time reading.