IWC Mark/Mk Series

A brief exploration of the not-so big pilot, from pre-MK series to current Mark XX.

*IWC latest and current Pilot's Watch Mark XX*

When I heard Oasis is coming back on tour, I knew tickets would be sold out. That’s not to say I’m a prophet, but merely stating a fact - Nostalgia sells. It feels good to reminisce about the past. Even if it’s something embarrassing like swinging my left arm for a whole day trying to wind my IWC Big Pilot ref. 500401 (sans 9). In my defence, it had a 7-days power reserve.

Strapping on IWC’s latest Mark XX reminded of how my collecting journey took flight. It was a potent mix of Hodinkee, and specifically John Mayer that got me hooked on Pilot’s watches. There’s something inimitably and iconically cool about them. “Highway to the danger zone.. 🌆🏍” I hope you enjoy reading this little exploration on Pilot’s watch Mark Series.

1936 - Mark IX

Huge arrow at twelve, big onion crown, bold numerals. Mouth these traits to any collector and they’ll know you’re referring to a Pilot’s watch. Some would say the world’s first aviator’s watch started between a certain Brazilian pilot and French jeweller. They’re probably right. Here, we’ll focus on the less flamboyant part of pilot’s watch history, starting with this IWC Mark IX.

As I understand, Mark IX was so named retrospectively after Mk series was born in later years. Check out those cathedral-styled hands, which are filled with a generous amount of lume, just like the numerals. Readers with sharper eyes will see a large triangle at 12 floating above numerals. Yes, the coin-edged bezel is actually rotatable, allowing its user to time an operation by turning the triangle, much like a dive watch’s bezel.

1940 - Not Pilot’s watch

12 watch companies were engaged by MoD(Ministry of Defence) of Britain during WWII to produce (not-pilot) watches, thus named ‘Dozen’. Identified by the broad arrow on the dial (property of government) these watches also had to follow British MoD’s specifications of having a black dial, arabic numerals, lume hands, shatterproof dial and WWW - Watch, Wristlet, Waterproof - so engraved on case back.

*The 'Dozen', pic credit: Watches Of Knightsbridge*

Check out Hodinkee’s article for the original ‘Dirty Dozen’ if you’d like to know more about these OG mil-spec watches. Here’s a table from their article:

*A summary of 'Dirty Dozen', pic credit: Konrad Knirim’s British Military Timepieces*

While the ‘Dirty Dozen’ weren’t made for pilots, it was still produced with a Faraday cage; soft-inner iron ring encapsulating the movement for anti-magnetism. A few years later, the British Royal Air Force (RAF) commissioned a few watch manufacturers to kickstart the Pilot Mk series.

1948 - MK 11

I’m very lucky to know a friend who has one MK 11, albeit not from International Watch Co. Aesthetically speaking, this Jaeger-LeCoultre is essentially the same as IWC’s thanks to (mil) specifications of the RAF, Royal Air Force. 35mm case, 18mm fixed lugs, thickened lume indices at 3,6,9 and of course, the iconic triangle at 12.

*Mk 11 from JLC, watch belongs to a dear friend*

Similar outside, different inside. While all RAF Mk 11 look similar from the outside (besides company’s logo), movements differ slightly. After all, JLC is a movement maker themselves, although IWC is no slouch either.

IWC’s Mk 11 is powered by Cal. 89, a movement created in 1946 by then technical director Albert Pellaton. Yes, that guy who created the pawl-winding system which IWC still uses today.

*IWC Cal. 89, pic credits: ssongwatches*

Inside JLC’s Mk 11 is their own Cal. 488 SBR, a chronometer-certified, antimagnetic movement. I know it’s meant to be a workhorse but why does it look so pleasing to my eyes? Eagle-eyed readers will realise both movements sport a broad arrow symbol, signifying property of RAF.

*JLC Cal. 488 SBR, pic credit: ssongwatches*

This JLC Mk 11 is somewhat of a rarity as only 2950 examples were made. From what I gleaned off a watchprosite forum:

from 1949 to 1953, JLC made 2950 Mk 11, 2000 for the Royal Air Force, 950 for the Royal Australian Air Force.

Mk 11 was a purpose-built watch made for the military and its production ended in 1984, almost three decades after WWII.

While the lume plots have discoloured, they are still very much legible. I particularly like the squared-off hour hand, something we continue to see in the next generation.

*The instantly-recognisable Pilot's Triangle*

Purpose-built watches fade into oblivion when its purpose wither away, or so we thought. With the end of war(s), mil-spec watches should have died off. Yet, we collectors love a good story, especially when they’re discontinued. Whether it’s B-Uhr or dive watches, there was still strong interest for these tool watches in the secondary market. And when there’s money to be made…

1994 - Mark XII

Almost five decades later, a much anticipated offspring was born. Enter IWC Mark XII. Chopped hour hand, thick lume plots at 3, 6, 9 and of course, a big fat triangle at 12. IWC took the best of its forebear and made it better.

*IWC Mark XII, watch belongs to a dear friend*

In my opinion, Mark XII is one of the most wearable pilot’s watch ever made. Proportionally, the 36mm case sits very well on my own slender wrist. Functionally, its movement is a huge upgrade from the manual-wound Cal.89 in Mk 11.

Beating inside Mark XII is JLC’ Cal. 889, a very thin self-winding movement with quick-set date. It’s not just IWC. Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin also used this base movement for a few of their watches. Hey, if it’s good enough for 2/3 of the holy trinity..

Some of us may not care for function, but looking at the well-aged lume plots, it’s hard not to salivate over IWC’s Mark XII. Swiss cheese anyone? 🧀

Alas, nothing is perfect in this world. Or that we simply cannot please everybody. Many purists wished IWC hadn’t added the date window, like the minimalist Mk11 from before.

*The only detraction? Nah, I love date.*

Mind you, this isn’t a Calatrava or Traditionnelle we are talking about here.

It’s a tool watch, and I think ‘Date’ is one of the most useful function for a wristwatch by a mile, and make that a nautical mile while we’re at it.

And in case you don’t get it:

Maybe one minor point of improvement would be to align the window within the arc of hour numerals. Let’s see if IWC changed that.

1999 - Mark XV

Let me douse that burning question raging within your mind first. IWC skipped XIII and XIV (13 and 14) because these two are considered unlucky numbers in most cultures. You’re welcome.

Now, let’s really have a look at the Mark XV.

First, the case was updated from 36mm to 38mm. With the bigger real estate, I expected some awkward negative space but thankfully that’s just in theory. In reality, I thought Mark XV looked perfectly balanced.

You might not like what you find when you dig a little deeper. Under the surface beats a new movement, but in this case (pun intended) newer is most certainly not better. IWC replaced the Cal. 889 with an ETA 2892, albeit a heavily modified one (Cal. 30110).

2006 - Mark XVI

Small is big. With Mark XVI, we see three minor changes but with major impact on the overall aesthetics. IWC increased the case diameter from 38mm to 39mm. It made commercial sense, given the preference of bigger watches during then. The most glaring change for me is triangle at 12. We see it shifted within the minute track, and now flanked by two little dots.

Next is the changing of hands (literally), though perhaps not my favourite succession plan. The squared-off hour hand is now sword-shaped. Last but not least, the removal of ‘9’. Before you tear your mouth apart, let me try and salvage this. I think it has something to do with Big Brother.

In the same year (2006), IWC updated their modern big pilot ref. 5002 to ref. 5004XX. From the shifting of triangle at 12 to the omission of 9, you might forgive IWC for wanting to keep the design language consistent.

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pics credit: IWC

Just to be clear, I love the Big Pilot models. As a nod to the original B-Uhr watches, IWC unabashedly stayed true to their bold and brazen case size even until today.

But changes that worked for one doesn’t really quite do for the other, especially when the original Mark watches are so iconic in their own right.

2012 - Mark XVII

One ‘I’ added behind the roman numeral, another 2mm added to case diameter. 41mm for a ‘Mark’ series seems like a major departure from the original 36mm Mark XII. Then again, larger size watches is very much on trend in 2010s.

While I personally think 40mm is the perfect size for a sports model, it really depends on overall ergonomics. One major difference here is the enlarged date aperture. With Mark XVII, we see three date digits, actual date denoted by a red arrow.

“So IWC thinks we don’t know 24 came before, and 26 comes after 25?” It’s easy to ridicule at this triple date display, but I find this quirky detail very charming. It’s also a sort of nod to the analogue display that one might see in a cockpit. Not that I would know since I’m no pilot.

Conjectures aside, one consistent feature here is the movement. Mark XVII used a similar ETA-based Cal. 30110 as the preceding Mark XVI. Will the next generation see a change in calibre?

2016 - Mark XVIII

Another ‘I’ added to the roman numerals, another 1mm shaved off the case diameter. Yes, you read that right, reduced to 40mm. Purists rejoice, or maybe not so soon. For starters, I love that IWC shifted the triangle at 12 back below minutes track.

Besides the uninterrupted minute markers, Mark XVIII saw the return of ‘9’ on the dial. There’s a much better sense of completeness with this updated dial layout; a perfect balance of negative space.

Alas, an update for the movement. Mark XVIII saw a shift from an ETA-based Cal. 30110 to a Sellita-based Cal. 35111. Some things don’t change. Power reserve remains a modest 42 hours. I guess then management’s mantra was firmly rooted in ‘Why fix something that isn’t broken.’

While that’s usually true for an iconic design, the modern Mark series is and has already veered far away from the original 36mm Mark XVII and dateless mil-spec Mk 11. Fast forward one new CEO and one pandemic later, will we see a proper revival for the Mark series?

2022 - Mark XX

Presenting to you, Mark KAWS.. I’m kidding. Skipping XIX (19) and going straight into XX, what we have here is an unintended potential to collaborate with the king of modern art. Yes, I’m not letting this one go until it happens.

*IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX and also #NWA*

IWC launched Mark KAWS.. ok fine, Mark XX in 2022 in the same 40mm case. Do I wish it was reduced to 39mm, or dare I say it, 38mm? Of course. I emphasise again that ergonomics isn’t only about a singular digit. Thickness is also slightly reduced from 11mm to 10.8mm. That’s not all.

While the previous Mark XVIII and Mark XX have similar diameter, XX sees a shortened lug-lug length from 51mm to 49.2mm. This 1.8mm reduction may not sound like much on paper but this minor tweak was big enough to nudge a (discerning, and shameless) consumer towards an expected outcome. Yes, I bought it.

*Silvery white dial, and a deliciously plump triangle lume*

It wasn’t under a whim, nor was the love immediate though. IWC first released Mark XX in two standard dial colours - jet black and sunburst blue. It was only a year later in 2023 that IWC launched this silvery white dial.

Unlike the launch variants which had metallic hands, IWC went for a matte black border for the white Mark XX. It’s not just hands. The markers and numerals are colour-inversed with even a piano-like border on 12, 3, 6, 9, all in the name of legibility.

*Black and navy blue launch colours in 2022, pic credit: monochrome*

There is something very counter-intuitive about having a bright white dial for what’s meant to be a stealthy tool watch.

If I would be spotted and shot by the enemy, at least I will die pretty with this sparkly Mark XX on my wrist.

The white dial is refreshing to look at and even pass off as being dressy, which is exactly suited for my daily needs. Besides, I like that it represents the new zeitgeist of IWC. We can honour past icons but we shouldn’t be haunted by ghosts of the pasts.

Take the date window for example.

*A masterclass in 'How to do a date window'*

Some laud the dateless Mk11 as most desirable. I personally like the functionality. I like it even more if it’s aligned properly like this Mark XX. Scroll up and see the date windows of older Marks. Even OG Mark XII has a window that leans too far right.

We can nitpick all day but I rather elaborate on what I mean by the current zeitgeist of IWC. It’s about pure design. While I normally find coloured ceramic faddy, I like that IWC centered the whole narrative on nature. Then there’s the ‘new’ Ingenieur. ‘New’, because it actually looks very much like the original SL Jumbo designed by Genta.

Funny thing about great design is that it’s very difficult to explain why we love it. But when it’s bad, we detect it almost a mile away. Imagine if we coloured our leaves blue and oceans green, weird isn’t it? Speaking about Ingenieur, it also shares the same movement as Mark XX.

Cal. 32111

Fact: Cal. 32111 is based on a Val Fleurier ebauche.

Fact: Val Fleurier is a Richemont-owned manufacture.

Fact: They also supply to other Richemont watch brands like Vacheron Constantin’s Fifty-Six.

There are more wondrous facts about Cal. 32111 such as its 120-hour power reserve, silicon lever and escape wheel, and even IWC’s own bi-directional pawl-winding system.

What’s not a fact is calling it fully in-house, but neither is calling it non in-house. The former would argue it’s all under the Richemont ‘House’, the latter being IWC didn’t design the movement from the ground up. How many manufactures can really claim to be fully in-house though? Not especially with today’s very globalised and integrated supply chain. Besides, if not being fully in-house means they can focus on crafting a proper narrative, create great designs, well-rationalised product pipeline and dare I say it - good customer service, then I’m all for it.

Parting Words

To say that I have a soft spot for IWC is stating the obvious. After all, there’s nothing like the first. While I don’t wear my 46mm Big Pilot (ref. 500401) as often, I still wind it up from time to time. Yes, this time with my fingers only. Then the Big Pilot sits on my desk, providing accurate mechanical time to set my other watches, like the new Mark XX. Talk about being rooted in the past.

As always, I hope you had a happy time reading. H60Mins out.