Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art
Intimidated? So was I. Art has that kind of effect on most people, or maybe it’s just me. Métiers d'Art means ‘professions/masters of art’ in French. Ok, it’s not just me. What has Art got to do with watches then? Well, have a look yourself.
Métiers d'Art La Symbolique des Laques
Métiers d’Art “La Symbolique des Laques” Koi & Waterfall, watch belongs to Vacheron Constantin.
It’s easy to confuse fear with awe. In both cases, we are at a loss for words. All the better, since it’ll save me any potential embarrassment from sounding smart.
Lucky for you, Art is something hard to explain with words, so I’ll just let you enjoy these pictures in silence, mostly.
Caseback of La Symbolique des Laques” Koi & Waterfall as seen previously.
Vacheron Constantin has been doing this for almost three centuries. 270 years at the time of this writing, to be exact. Safe to say, they know a thing or two about watchmaking. Unlike standard production pieces,
these cabinotiers pieces are made in very limited numbers not because of artificial scarcity. Think about it for a moment - how many variants of Mona Lisa exists today?
Métiers d’Art “La Symbolique des Laques”, Hanami (Spring), watch belongs to Vacheron Constantin
What you’ve just seen are two pieces from the “La Symbolique des Laques” collection with a focus on Japanese culture, specifically on their fine arts. Released in 2012, La Symbolique des Laque was offered as a set of three and only twenty sets were made.
This particular technique is called Maki-e, where gold powder is sprinkled on a black canvas called Urushi (漆) a natural lacquer harvested from the Urushi tree. It’s mostly seen in fine Japanese lacquerware and prized for its high-shine high durability. This reminds me of enamel dials and their ability to retain its original colours.
Here’s the caseback of ‘Hanami’, showing the passage of time where flowers have wilted.
Speaking of enamel dials, here’s the next series:
Métiers d'Art - Le Temps Divin
Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin ‘Ode to Amaterasu’, watch belongs to Vacheron Constantin
This ‘Ode to Amaterasu’ was released as part of Vacheron’s Le Temps Divin - The Divine Time. Yet another French term, but you should be used to it circa Metiers d’Art. Jokes aside, let’s dive into the details.
Surreal from afar, surreal up close too.
It’s insane to think this is painted on a 36mm (dia) canvas. The crazy artist? His name is Laurent Ramat.
Mr Ramat’s superpower? His eyesight.
Like Maki-e seen previously, this series is also inspired by Japanese culture, specifically Japanese folklore and mythology. Another such piece in 36mm case features Konohanasakuya-hime, Goddess of Mt Fuji.
Le Temps Divin, Ode to ‘Konohanasakuya-hime’, watch belongs to Vacheron Constantin
What impressed me most is the perceived depth of this miniature enamel painting. There’s a certain wispy-ness to the overall portrayal, as if a deity has descended from the heavens. Look carefully and you’ll see Mt Fuji in a distance. Absolutely sublime.
Mt Fuji in the background, a thousand-coloured dress in the foreground
Like ‘Amaterasu’, ‘Konohanasakuya-hime’ is also painted by Mr Laurent. What you might not know however, is that this is a combined effort of two artisans from the house of Vacheron Constantin.
can you spot the artist’s signature?
Before Mr Laurent applies pigmentation on the dial, Mr Supachai (remember his name) gets first dibs. Utilising a special printmaking technique called intaglio, he transforms a smooth metal plate into a fabric-like, velvety canvas.
Safe to say, it is a lot of work (and time) to produce these unique art pieces. And by unique, I mean they are truly 1 of 1 piece. Here’s another one-of-a-kind timepiece, except this time - it’s complicated.
Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Raijin’/Thunder God, watch belongs to Vacheron
No expense was spared, as can be seen from the engraved casing. The case motif is inspired by the angry storm clouds made by Raijin. And you know what else the Thunder God makes? A thunderclap ⚡️💥
The modern marvel, ultra-thin (3.9mm) minute repeating Cal. 1731
Vacheron couldn’t resist adding a horological grand complication into the mix. They’re the masters after all, owning and then breaking their own record of most complicated watch with the ‘Berkley’ (63 complications) but I digress.
Lest we forget after the deluge of art work, they know how to finish watch parts too ;)
Pick a fault. I’ll wait.
We’ve seen enamelling and engraving. There’s also the special art of gem-setting. While I’m not a biggest fan of gemstones on watches, I’m a fan of Vacheron Constantin (no sh*t). Here’s why:
my favourite detail - minute repeater slider on Fujin/Wind God adorned with tsarvorites
In true Vacheron style, they snuck in some gems - six baguette cuts to be exact - onto the minute repeater slider. Step aside, Loro. This is the real stealth wealth. For Raijin, Vacheron used six rubies instead to match the colour theme.
you guessed it, LR = Laurent Ramat
After seeing all the beautiful enamelling and engraving, let’s combine the two into one watch, and throw in some whimsical time-telling.
Métiers d'Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists
Métiers d'Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists - Terre de Feu, watch credit: Vacheron Constantin
41mm diameter double-stepped white gold case are just some facts. But mere facts don’t make a watch and this is more than just a timepiece. For starters, there are no typical hands.
What you have here are satellites - three rotating discs, each with four numbers that make up the twelve hours we have in a day - sweeping across a 120 degrees arc of 60 mins.
what time is it? 4:48
Better than have me bore you with a bunch of words, here’s Max from the manufacture explaining how it works.
as told by HQ trainer, Max.
This, and three other watches of this Naturalists series proudly carries the moniker of Métiers d'Art with a strong combination of Engraving and Enamelling.
the intricate butterfly of ‘Terre de feu’
The other white gold piece of this series features a frontal view of HMS Beagle. Out of the four, this one has the most beautiful enamel artwork as seen from the flora and bubbly waves.
Tribute to Explorer Naturalists - Cap-Vert, watch credit: Vacheron Constantin
There are four models in this series, two in rose gold, two in white gold, each limited to 10 pieces. You could buy all four as a set, but a mortal like me is very happy to merely photograph them.
Here’s the rose gold variant: Cap de Bonne-Espérance.
Tribute to Explorer Naturalists - Cap de Bonne-Espérance, watch credit: Vacheron Constantin
Herpetophobics look away, this lizard might just leap out of its sapphire glass cage.
hyperrealistic engraving means a petting zoo in a glass cage
You could say I left the best for last, as we find ourselves back with Le Temps Divin series. The final Métiers d'Art technique I’ll be touching on is Wood Marquetry.
Le Temps Divin - Marquetry
Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “Azure Dragon”, watch credit: Vacheron
Google says: Wood marquetry is a decorative technique where thin sheets of wood (veneers) are cut into intricate patterns and assembled to create a picture or design on a surface, often furniture, using contrasting colors and grains.
What Google doesn’t say is how difficult it is to create those little wood pieces.
Imagine making a thousand piece puzzle. Except, it has to fit a 42mm diameter border. On top of that, we have to make every piece from scratch, cut to the right shape, coloured to the right shade.
not your usual jigsaw, every little wood piece is a differently
Vacheron Constantin would like to further add that it’s not just from one tree. These little wood pieces are harvested from: blue-tinted tulip tree, brosimum rubescens, padouk, blue-tinted dappled eucalyptus, blue-tinted speckled sycamore maple, sky-blue-tinted tulip tree, hornbeam, natural sycamore, blue myrtle burr, amarelo. Now, that’s just showing off.
Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “White Tiger”, watch credit: Vacheron
500 plus pieces. That’s the estimated number of wood pieces for the white tiger. Next up peacock 🦚, please. Also, Vacheron Constantin probably thought wood marquetry alone is too easy. Otherwise, how do you explain the Tourbillon spinning on the dial?
Parting Words
Besides Vacheron Constantin, there are a few esteemed watch brands showcasing Métiers d'Art as well. Chopard, Jaeger, Patek and even Cartier. In doing so, these maisons isn’t just showing the world that they can make a beautiful watch. They’re preserving the know-how for many future generations to come.
Vacheron Constantin kickstarted their 270th anniversary with a bang - launching Historiques 222 in stainless steel. It’s an amazing watch, made even more desirable from all the hype. After seeing all these Métiers d’Art watches however, we’re reminded that Vacheron isn’t your one-model hype brand. I’m waiting with bated breath to see what they in store for the rest of this monumental year. As always, I hope you enjoyed reading. H60mins out.
‘floating VC’ on Les Cabinotiers Ode to Izanagi, biggest thanks to VCSG for letting me shoot them.
