Patek Tokyo 2023
A photo report of Patek’s Exhibition in Tokyo, 14-25 June 2023
After touching on the long and esteemed history of Vacheron Constantin, let us take a quick look at the other grande maison of Swiss Haute Horology - Patek Philippe. This is a name that needs no introduction.
It was of fortuituous timing that I happen to be holidaying in Tokyo during the same period Patek is hosting their exhibition. At least that’s what I tell the missus. Patek is also a brand that has a whole host of ardent fans and its history is already very well documented. Lucky you then, for this will not be a verbal diarrhoea but a photo essay of sorts. Have a happy time reading!
Ref. 6127 in light blue (36mm) and Ref. 7127 in lilac (31mm), both in white gold.
Ref. 5330G, World Time + Date, limited to 300pieces
No prizes for guessing the colour theme of this exhibition. If you look carefully on the placard, it says Watch Art so here are some art pieces.
Watch Art
This has your name all over it @frm.watchleo 🦚
Calatrava case, double hobnail bezel ala ref. 6119 with enamel artwork featuring Kabuki.
See description below
see description above
Speaking of cloisonné enamelling,
Ref. 1415HU from 1946. Those teardrop lugs look familiar ;)
Louis Cottier’s World-Time with Cloisonné enamelling, probably a match made in horology heaven, if there ever was such a thing. This and Vacheron’s Mercator, of course ;)
Ref. 2523 HU from 1953
Still along the vein of ‘globetrotting’ is this travel time with two hour hands. I like how the dual time function is elegantly incorporated with the Calatrava case. Button at 10 jumps the hour hand forward, while the one at 8 skips it backwards.
Ref. 2597, travel time with two hour hands.
Chronographs
Since my collaboration with @langepedia, I have a newfound appreciation for Patek’s Chronographs. Seeing them in real life sort of completes the circle. Let’s start with this lovely ‘Spider lugs’ 🕷 ref. 1579.
Ref 1579, Spider lugs, case made from 1965.
Let’s spice it up with an extra hand (or two). Up next is the first ever rattrapante wristwatch made by Patek, using a Victorin Piguet movement from 1903. I love the little spade hour hand. And yes, it’s a monopusher no less. Those of you ardent Patek fans will realise today’s ref. 5959 got its inspiration from this.
Oh, wait this looks familiar.
I spy something pretty special over this shoulder…
While it isn’t the first ever rattrapante to be made, this ref. 1563 belongs to Duke Ellington. Like me, you may not care who that chap is, but the historical significance of this split-seconds chronograph is strong. This is only one of three to be made and features one of the most charming design that Patek ever made - Tasti Tondi, which means round buttons in Italian.
Look at the buttons… oh wait wrong side.
Ok this is the right side. Check out the details on those pushers.
Perpetual Calendar
synonym: Patek Philippe.
You get the point. Let’s take a look at the neo-vintage ref. 3450 from year 1981, which features a little ‘mole’ on the watch face to display the leap year. Interestingly, this is the first serially produced QP that features a leap year.
Ref. 3450
Probably my favourite perpetual calendar of the show - a ‘pink on pink’ perpetual calendar, ref. 2497 (thanks for identifying, @horologyancienne). I love the double-stepped lugs, and how clean the dial is without a minute track. Also, how about those tone-on-tone day/month apertures.
Ref. 2497 from 1952
Pink Gold? Salmon? Orange? Bronze? Who cares, it’s gorgeous.
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Alas. Not much more needs to be said here. If however you do want more: https://langepedia.com/patek-philippe-5004acier-the-story-of-a-legend/
Ref. 2499, First Series.
Empty Vessels
makes the most noise, get it? Ok, there’s nothing empty about this ref. 5308 though. Building onto the already insane ref. 5208, this Tokyo Salmon special 🍣 has an extra grand complication - rattrapante. Pure flex.
Ref. 5308, or Salmon Sushi XXL 🍣🍣🍣
In case you really thought it’s empty inside the vessel, Patek decided to show you what’s inside with Ref. 5316. Minute repeater, retrograde-date perpetual calendar, and one more grand complication that I shan’t type out since it’s printed on the dial. Pfft, show off.
Ref. 5316, with an insanely gorgeous smoked crystal dial.
The Tourbillon at 6.
Both ref. 5308 and ref. 5316 are technical marvels. What about combining art into it?
Ref. 5531, Worldtime Minute Repeater, with Tokyo city map
Beautiful both inside and out, hobnail flanks and skeletonised lugs.
There were alot more pieces on display and the above are just some of my preferred choices. Having attended the Singapore exhibition in 2019 as well, my wish is to see more (new) interesting museum pieces for the next show in Milan 2025.
Fin
