Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches Part I

a brief history of Vacheron’s sports watches leading up to current catalogue

Previously, I touched on a brief history of Vacheron’s time-only (round) dress watches. Now, let us do the same for their sports watches. Primer: Looking at the cover photo of my Historiques 222, can you really call it ‘sporty’? Keep that question at the back of your head as we read on.

Before 222

In the 70s, there was a growing demand for robust watches to suit what I imagine to be the Riviera lifestyle: sun, sand and of course water. The last element is as we all know, the arch-nemesis for moving metal parts, exactly what our precious watches are made of.

*Villefranche-Sur-Mer, along French Riviera region, pic credit: hotels.com*

Vacheron Constantin saw that demand and wanted to create a waterproof watch that is capable for the great outdoors. Most of us might think “222” was that first answer, but it wasn’t. In Vacheron’s usual dressy (and perhaps quirky) design ethos, they created ref. 6782.

Ref. 6782

The first thing you noticed is probably a red triangle at 12, which calls attention to the cool diver-bezel. Mind you, it isn’t just a design, but a bi-directional rotating bezel. Here, I must make special mention to Marcus Siems’ very informative article on ref. 6782: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/history-design-vacheron-constantin-6782-turnograph#ref.

*Comparing various iterations of ref. 6782, pic credit: Goldammer/Siemswatches*

Check out his blog if you want to learn about the various iterations of Vacheron’s very first ‘sports model’. A note of interest regarding the exact birth year. Marcus mentioned this reference started from 1960s. Vacheron stated 1972 on their website, which I will assume to be so for now.

Ref. 2215

In your head lies the burning question: “where’s the integrated bracelet, where’s the stainless steel?” In 1975, Vacheron answered our post-prescient questions with ref. 2215.

You might have expected an Octagonal bezel with exposed screws. Well, at least it has ‘Royal’ on the dial. Jokes aside, you also might have expected to see some nautical (pun intended) influences. But this ref. 2215 came a year before Patek’s Nautilus. There are other variants featuring a black dial, and even with diamond indices.

*Ref. 2215, Silver dial with diamond indices, pic credit: Vacheron Constantin*

*Ref. 2215, black dial with diamond indices, Pic credit: Christies*

Oval, Octogonal, how about Ovatagonal. Like ref. 6782 that came before, ref. 2215 is for a lack of better word ‘very Vacheron’, which is code for no boring designs. Putting aside all else, allow me to guide your eyes to the hands and indices from above. And now, we enter year 1977, on the 222nd anniversary of Vacheron Constantin.

“222” / Ref. 44018

*Ref. 44018, the original “222” in stainless steel, pic credit: Sotheby’s*

Five years later than Royal Oak, a year later than Nautilus, when the original ref. 222 ( steel) was launched in 1977, it didn’t receive the same fanfare as the Historiques 222 (ref. 4200H) did when released in 2022.

It might be due to the #oneofnotmany production. As mentioned in my first article regarding production numbers and critical mass, for a design to stick in people’s head and consequently becoming an icon, enough people needs to have (and want) the watch.

For the original “222”, we have benefit of hindsight. Some articles has it that around 500-700 ref. 44018 ‘jumbos’ were made in the 37mm case size during its seven year run (until 1984).

*Modern day icon, Historiques 222, ref. 4200H.*

Compare that number to AP’s original Royal Oak ref. 5402 where 6050 units were made.

Originally planned as a run of 1,000 units, Model 5402 was eventually produced in 6,050 units, sold between 1972 and 2002 - AP Chronicles

To find a balance between exclusivity and accessibility requires a balancing act that is finer than Vacheron’s finishing, which is very fine. Not forgetting the third and perhaps most important point - Popularity, otherwise known as market demand.

As to how many modern 222s are being produced today, your guess is as good as mine. One thing is clear though. Today, thanks to the likes of Brad Pitt & friends, the 222 has turned from cultdom into full-fledged stardom.

*At Wimbledon 2023, Brad Pitt sporting the original ref.44018 in steel. Pic Credit: Getty Images, first spotted by @niccoloy*

Design

Now onto the design inspiration. Here on H60Mins, I always like to be a bit of a contrarian and ask: is it really sporty though?

With its 120m water resistance, the “222” was definitely robustly-built but instead of withstanding G-forces on the court, ref. 44018 is more likely spotted on the al fresco stands withstanding the occasional precipitation.

By now, you should already know that unlike the Other two sports model, ref. 222 wasn’t designed by Gerald Genta. It was Jörg Hysek who created this unique watch with a cool integrated bracelet. Now, let us look at a few key design elements using Historiques 222 ref. 4200H as example.

Case

Shaped like a tonneau (wine barrel), the case is a foundation for the circular dial and very unique notched bezel. You will see this same case shape inspiring the Overseas in years to come.

The unique ‘scalloped’ bezel has an interplay of brushed and polished surfaces. Interestingly, this bezel can be removed by a specific tool only, and is the way for watchmakers to access the movement, from the front.

My favourite part of the case? It’s gotta be the Maltese cross emblem at 5 o’clock.

Bracelet

Almost as iconic as the bezel, the hexagonal links look like the chest pad of a superhero like Iron Man or Robocop, depending on which era you’re from ;)

Dial

Remember the hands and indices of ref. 6782 and ref. 2215 earlier? If not, do a quick scroll back up and you’ll see ref. 44018/ “222” has very similar baton hands and indices, with a slim middle line of lume.

Stainless steel, yellow gold or a combination of both in a two-tone case are the two main metals for ref. 44018. The dials are either black or silver for steel, while yellow gold came with a tone-on-tone ‘Champagne’ dial.

What if I told you there's a white gold “222”? Do a quick search online and you will find nothing about it, until very recently at Phillips’ auction in May 2023. It’s a specially comissioned piece which was supposed to be gem-set but the owner decided to leave it as a blank slate.

*rare white gold “222” from Phillips Auction May 2023, hammered for CHF 571,500.* Thanks @ho_z_y for showing me.
Now that we’ve seen the various renditions of “222” including a rare white gold variant, let us take a look at the movement.

Movement

Featured inside the original “222” ref. 44018 is Vacheron’s Calibre 1121. You might also know it as AP2121. Both were based on the self-winding ebauche from Jaeger called Cal. 920. Its thinness is also why the original Royal Oak and “222” can be so slim. In Vacheron’s case, this ref. 44018 is only 7mm thick.

*The back of original “222”, ref. 44018. Pic Credit: Bachmann & Scher*

Sadly, you can’t see the movement due to a closed caseback. In fact, it’s more accurate to say that ref. 44018 doesn’t have a caseback as it is a monobloc construct. As aforementioned, the movement can be accessed from the front after un-screwing the bezel. No such worry for the newer ref. 4200H though.

*Display caseback of Historiques 222 showing Vacheron’s modern day workhorse Cal. 2455/2*

The “333”

From its discontinuation in 1984, there are two successors to the integrated bracelet (sports?) watch, namely “333” and Phidias.

*“333” in stainless steel, pic credit: Vacheron Constantin*

The “333” was launched in Year 2088, the 333rd anniv… just kidding. You can still spot many similarities with its immediate forebear from its dial to hexagonal middle links on bracelet. The case however saw a major change, from tonneau to a trendier octagon. The scalloped bezel is dropped, and replaced by two notches on 3 and 9. Why? It’s just Vacheron.

Phidias

The octagonal “333” quickly made way for a round-cased “Phidias” launched in 1991. The most eye-catching feature here has to be the bracelet, with a spine-like middle link that runs through the entire chain.

They mostly come in a 35mm case size, which includes other variants like chronograph and World Time GMT. There’s also a smaller 25mm case for quartz version featuring only two hands.

Overseas

The year was 1996, but the time isn’t now. I will touch on Vacheron’s Overseas in the next article.

Parting Words

Besides grand complications and creative case shapes, Vacheron has proven they can take on a new category - integrated bracelet sports watch - and make it their own. Looking at past references on its own, you might find certain design quirky and even jarring. But stitched together on a chronoglogical order, we can sort of better appreciate each design element, see how far Vacheron has come over the years, and culminating with the current sports model - Overseas. More on that in the next article. I hope you had a happy time reading, always.

TLDR: It’s not Sporty, It’s Dressporty.

p.s: Special mention to Watchbrotherslondon. Check out their very informative article on ref. 44018/original “222”: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-vacheron-constantin-222-ref-44018-and-ref-46003