Vacheron Constantin Calendar Watches Part II

A brief look at Vacheron’s calendar watches post-90s to current catalogue

*Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 ref. 3110V*

In Part I, we looked at Vacheron’s vintage calendar watches. Now, let us take a look at VC’s calendar watches post-90s to current catalogue.

1992

This is a big year for Vacheron. Do you remember their triple calendar ref. 4240 from 1942? Some fifty years later, Historiques Triple Calendar ref. 47050 was launched in 1992 as an homage to that icon.

*Historiques Triple Calendar ref. 47050, pic credit: watchbox*

Most proportions and layout are same as before, 36mm case diameter, twin apertures for day and month. Instead of a red arrow hand, a blue crescent is used to indicate date. You’ll also notice the lugs are more ‘fin’ than teardrop. The biggest change here is beneath the dial - a modern movement Cal. 1126, based on JLC’s very competent ebauché Cal. 889.

Vacheron didn’t just stop at triple calendar.

Ref. 49005

In the same year (1992) Vacheron launched a very special watch: their first perpetual calendar chronograph. Mention this bi-complication and we think of Patek Philippe, who in my humble opinion reigns supreme in the category of Perpetual calendar Chronograph.

Vacheron wasn’t looking to topple Patek’s PCC though.

They have a much nobler goal of showcasing the prowess of mechanical watches from Switzerland with what they call ‘The 7 Marvels’.

Ultra-thin, Minute repeating, Tourbillon, Skeletonisation, Gem set and Enamelling are some of the other marvels. Ref. 49005 represents the Calendar segment.

*One of Vacheron’s Seven Marvels, ref. 49005*

Here, we see a familiar four sub-dial QP layout, similar to ref. 43031 with that charming 48-months display. Inside this nifty 38mm case, ref. 49005 is powered by Cal. 1136QP, a self-winding chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar module.

Pity it’s hidden behind a closed caseback. Lucky for us, Vacheron has a watchmaker based in their Singapore boutique. Mega thanks to Jordan, who took time off his busy schedule from servicing watches so that we can see Cal. 1136QP in action.

Did you wish it was a manual-wound chronograph so that all the moving parts are unobstructed by an winding rotor? Well, go get a Historiques Chronograph ref. 47101 ;)

Jokes aside, Cal. 1136QP is actually adapted from a Frederic Piguet automatic chronograph movement (Cal. 1185), with Vacheron’s own perpetual calendar module added on.

*Cal. 1136 QP, with a beautiful (shallow) cote de geneve decorated full rotor*

Straight lugs, double-stepped case, pristine white lacquer dial, applied baton indices with a very competent modular movement that is finished to Vacheron’s high standards.

This platinum white dial version is produced between 1992 to 2002, and around 300 pieces (or lesser) are made. There are a few other variants such as rose gold with the same white lacquer dial, or one that is rarer - black dial. And yes, it’s with guillochage.

*Ref. 49005 in rose gold and black guilloché dial, pic credit: Vacheron Constantin*

The above example was officially available via Vacheron Constantin’s Les Collectionneurs program, where vintage icons are re-conditioned and sold with a renewed warranty from the manufacture.

2000 - Malte QP Chronograph

Flared double stepped lugs and sword hands are some of the signature traits of Malte collection launched in year 2000. At the pinnacle of this model is ref. 47112, perpetual calendar chronograph.

*Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, ref. 47112 pic credit: watchbox*

While this 39mm diameter Malte QP chronograph was produced until year 2007, the iconic moon face and unique leap year positioning lives on under a different name today - Traditionnelle.

Those of you hoping for a manual wound movement got your wish. If you read my previous article on Vacheron Chronographs, you’ll know that Vacheron’s Cal. 1141 is a gorgeous manually wound chronograph that is as beautiful as it is important.

*Cal. 1141 QP hidden inside a hunter case, pic credit: ABTW*

After all, the base movement - Lemania Cal.2310 - is the same one beating inside Patek’s ref. 3970 then ref. 5970 to Omega’s Speedmaster. In order to let us view the movement in all its glory, Vacheron decided to use a hinged cover or ‘hunter style caseback’ for this ref. 47112.

2008 - Traditionnelle QP

With Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openworked, we return to a familiar (four sub dial) face. This ref. 43172 might remind you of ref. 43032, also an openworked QP from 1983 as seen in the previous article on vintage Vacheron Calendar watches.

*my dear friend’s Traditionnelle perpetual calendar skeleton ref. 43172*

Familiar, because Vacheron went back to a four subdial layout for this perpetual calendar, and what I think is a signature trait of theirs - 48 months full leap year display. For enhanced legibility, the leap year is coloured in red.

2011 - Overseas QP

In 2011, Vacheron made an unprecedented move by adding a QP in their stainless steel sports model. Granted that AP has a Royal Oak QP way back when and Patek was somewhat a laggard, launching Nautilus QP ref. 5740 only in 2018 in white gold no less.

*Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref 49020, pic credit: monochromewatches*

Limited to 80 pieces, this 42mm Overseas QP chrono sports a two-tone look, steel case and titanium bezel, with a sprinkle of sporty yellow accents. Inside, it is powered by Cal. 1136QP, the same automatic chronograph movement as seen in ref. 49005 (circa 1992).

2016 - Overseas Gen III QP

With the launch of 3rd Gen Overseas, Vacheron decided to retain the perpetual calendar but omitted the chronograph. By doing so, ref. 4300V comes in a very slender case of 8.1mm thick only, made possible thanks to the ultra-thin Cal. 1120QP.

*Overseas Gen III Perpetual Calendar ref.4300V*

This is very much aligned with Vacheron’s ‘sports elegance’ philosophy, made possible by its beating heart - Cal. 1120QP, based off JLC’s venerable Cal. 920. More of that in another article.

My favourite detail of Overseas Perpetual ref. 4300V has got to be its hand-painted constellations on the moon disc.

*Hand-painted constellations on the moon phase of ref. 4300V*

It’s nice to know there’s an extra human touch, even nicer to know it’s for such a romantic detail. Next, we move on to Vacheron’s Historiques collection with a fitting homage to ref. 4240.

2017 - Historiques Triple Calendar 1942

Reviving an icon in a modern guise is a tricky thing. Do too much, and the purists will stake you for not staying true to the original. Do too little or copy totally, modernists will flame you for lacking creativity.

Vacheron has been toe-ing that line between blatant laziness and respectful homage deftly. From American 1921, Cornes de Vache and now this Triple Calendar 1942 the maison has accurately captured design ethos from their original ref. 4240 and re-interpreted it tastefully with ref. 3110V.

*Historiques 1942 Triple Calendar, ref. 3110V in stainless steel*

For starters, Vacheron preserved my favourite detail of the case - triple gadroons, a type of fluting that follows the curved shape of the object just like the original ref. 4240 in yellow gold.

*Double patty of Triple gadroon case flanks, 1942 vs 2017*

On the dial, we see a faithful reuse of red colour for dates, day, month and of course the most important arrowhead. I love how Vacheron took many cues from the original, but that’s not all. In my humble opinion, they made it better with ref. 3110V. The flame-blued hands lends a modern touch, while the champagne-coloured dial balances it out with a ‘vintage’ look.

*My ref. 3110V modern homage triple calendar in steel looking ahead at the original ref. 4240*

And here’s a comparison with the original - ref. 4240.

*@fifteenoclock’s original ref. 4240 from 1942 leading the way*

It’s difficult to innovate when the original design (ref. 4240) is so good. Yet, Vacheron manage to do just that with ref. 3110V with the Typography. Yes, fonts. The stylised sans serif numerals has a touch of whimsicalness that is very befitting of the original art deco era.

*Stylised sans serif font with a lovely 3D applied Maltese cross logo*

2019 - Twin Beat Perpetual

While Vacheron Constantin is known for their classic and sometimes whimsical designs, the Twin Beat QP released in 2019 is groundbreaking in a few ways. First is the Open Face concept, showing the jewels and gears of sub-dials that is normally hidden beneath a solid dial.

*Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar, pic credit: Vacheron Constantin*

There’s also a NAC (N-acetylcysteine) treatment to darken the main plates and bridges for a stealthy modern look. I personally think this choice enhances readability of the perpetual calendar even more. Speaking of legibility, instead of their usual 48-months display, the leap year is now indicated via a small frame at 6 o’clock.

Did I also mention this Twin Beat has a patent-pending mechanism of increasing its power reserve to 65 days with a little button at 8 o’clock. All this technical craziness encased in very wearable 40mm platinum case. Enough said.

2021 - Complete Calendar Open Face

Vacheron knew they hit jackpot with the Open Face aesthetic. It is no surprise to see them combining that with their iconic pointer-style calendar layout. As a bonus, they threw in a hyper-realistic moonphase to make it a complete calendar.

*Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Open Face ref 4020T, pic credit: Watchtime*

We see the same NAC treatment from the Twin Beat, but this time the day and month discs are totally transparent as it floats above a white base for better contrast.

2022 - Traditionnelle Perpetual

If I say 36.5mm case diameter fitted with perpetual calendar, you might think of Vacheron’s neo-vintage watch ref. 43031 from 1983. Except it’s 2022, and the dial is a dreamy blue-tinted mother of pearl.

*Traditionnelle QP Ultra-thin ref. 4305T, watch belongs to Vacheron SG*

Lose the diamonds and you win the men over as well. One of the sleeper hits from 2022 which was overshadowed by the re-release of Historiques 222.

2023 - Retrograde Date

We’ve seen quite a few triple calendars, perpetual calendars and even a complete calendar. Sometimes, life needn’t be that complicated. In fact, the only useful function that is the date. In year 2023, VC decided to focus on that - Date.

Except, this is Vacheron Constantin. They cannot make it simple. At the pinnacle of it all is ref. 6010T, Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface (TRDO).

*Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface Ref 6010T, watch courtesy of Vacheron Constantin SG*

Besides the now familiar NAC finish, I love its dial layout where the arc of retrograde date is counter balanced by the tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

*Openface, showing us gears working on the dial side.*

If they’re going hide the gearings under a solid dial, Vacheron will make it pretty as seen in this Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date.

*Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date , watch courtesy of Vacheron Constantin SG*

You simply cannot go wrong with a salmon dial. Add an open arrowhead, and what you have here is one of the most stylish ways to tell the day and date.

*details details details, check out the two-tone Maltese cross*

My Perspective

From a pointer-style date display on their triple calendar to the latest revival of Retrograde date, Vacheron has succeeded in taking a genre - Calendar - and made it their own.

Take for example the 48-months display.

*48-months display for leap year as seen on ref. 49005.*

Some argue a 48-months display makes the dial look cluttered and is a relic of the past. But is it really such a bad thing to honour past design? Not if you can do it tastefully, which is really more art than science.

Looking at the two triple calendars side by side, do you think Vacheron has mastered the art of homage? I do.

Once again, big thanks to @fifteenoclock for his triple calendar ref. 4240, and @ken.delugs for his skeletonised perpetual calendar ref. 43032. I hope you all had a happy time reading the two parts on Vacheron’s calendar watches.