IWC Perpetual Calendar

a dive into one of the most innovative perpetual calendar ever made

Mention IWC and we think Fliegeruhr (pilot watch). Rightfully so, given how strong and successful their brand is tied with aviation. Besides the original big pilot, IWC also has frequent collaborations with national Air Forces and aerobatics team. One of my favourite is their Blue Angels Pilot Chronograph, where the entire case is made using coloured ceramic. And yes, it’s blue.

Speaking of coloured ceramics, one might think it’s rather ubiquitous today with other brands jumping on the bandwagon. Not in the 1980s though. IWC was the first to commercially produce ceramic watch cases circa 1986 but we’ll get there in a jiffy. First, let’s dial back one year to 1985, where a groundbreaking, or should I say sound-barrier breaking event occured.

1985 - Da Vinci ref. 3750

*Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, ref. 3750, pic credit: monochromewatches*

The two men behind IWC’s Da Vinci are Kurt Klaus and Hano Burtscher; the former is responsible for its beating heart, latter for its case design. Mr Burtscher was so inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci, specifically a harbour fort that the legendary artist designed in 1400s, that he named this seminal watch after the painter. On hindsight, it’s a very apt choice.

After all both Da Vincis, watch and man are renaissance icons in their respective domains.

Iconic name and design aside, once you realise it’s a perpetual calendar, the first thing you’d do is look for pushers, little ‘buttons’ around the case flanks for us to adjust day/date/month/moonphase. News flash - there aren’t any.

Everything is adjusted from the crown. Surprised? Such is the genius of Herr. Kurt Klaus. More on the tech talk in abit.

1986 - Zirconium Oxide

*Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar ref. 3755, pic credit: monochromewatches*

In 1986, IWC became the first manufacture to commercialise Zirconium oxide, or Ceramic for watch case. Virtually scratch-proof except by diamond, ref. 3755’s black ceramic case is a seminal step for IWC’s material innovation.

Besides black, there’s also a very cool white ceramic and funky baby blue ceramic case.

*Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph ref. 3755 in white ceramic, pic credit: IWC*

*Ref. 3755 in baby blue ceramic, watch belongs to IWC*

1995 - ref. 3751

Zehn Handë, or in English: ten hands. On the 10th anniversary of Da Vinci, IWC decided to add one extra hand for a special complication: Double Chronograph/Rattrapante. Enter ref. 3751.

*Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante, ref. 3751*

You simply can’t miss the extra hand in bright red. For that, we have another genius watchmaker, Mr Richard Habring to thank. I particularly love the circular counter-weight of both chrono hands, which sits well with the overall design cues.

This particular ref. 3751 is in platinum, limited to 500 pieces, with even more made in yellow gold. The 39mm case may sound large-ish for its time, but wears more like a 38mm thanks to a unique hamburger style construct, where it’s wider in the middle girth.

My favourite part of this watch? The moon disc.

Nothing beats aventurine when it comes to moon disc. Not unless it’s a skeletonised watch, which then perhaps lapis lazuli and its translucency is prized. Besides the moon disc, another charming detail of the neo-vintage Da Vinci is IWC’s use of a thick plexi-glass.

*plexi-glass defracting light near the edges*

Now that we got the aesthetics sorted, let’s dive into the technical part.

Tech Talk

At this point, you might be slightly bewildered, probably because you’re not used to hearing IWC and grand complications mentioned in the same breath. That’s why I feel even more compelled to share about Da Vinci ref. 3750.

Mr Kurt Klaus didn’t just make a perpetual calendar that was easy to use, he democratised haute horology with Calibre 79261.

Make no mistake, it’s still very much a mechanical watch, based on a workhorse movement that is Valjoux 7750, an automatic chronograph ebauché.

*Cal. 79261 as seen in ref. 3750, pic credits: Zeitauktion*

While it may not be much of a looker, nitpicking on finishing is completely missing the point of our dear Schaffhausen watchmaker. This is a manufacture built on basic principles of engineering - efficiency and reliability. Check out the video below to see how easy it is to use:

Flourishing is an aesthetic choice, one that IWC chooses to pursue if they wish to, as you shall see with Destriero Scafusia.

*Movement of IWC’s most complicated wristwatch, pic credit: watchesbysjx*

Yes, it’s a tourbillon and that’s not all. Minute repeater, rattrapante and perpetual calendar, all four grand complications in one heck of a watch. For full details, check out the very informative article by SJX here: IWC Il Destriero Scafusia Grand Complication.

Destriero wouldn’t have been possible without the herculean effort of IWC’s visionary leaders then. Let’s fast forward to modern day, and into a very fast sport - Formula One.

BIG PILOT’S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR EDITION “TOTO WOLFF X MERCEDES-AMG PETRONAS FORMULA ONE™ TEAM”

*Big Pilot QP ‘Toto Wolff’ edition, watch courtesy of @jeremywatches*

If Toto knew the name was such a mouthful…

Luckily Toto was wearing the shock absorber XPL, able to withstand up to 30,000G. Big, bold and striking. No, I’m not talking about Mr Wolff. I’m referring to the gorgeous sapphire glass dial which gives us a little glimpse into Kurt Klaus’ magic.

*AMG-Petronas green almost looks like lume is on*

While the crown-operated perpetual is magical, the best part of this watch is when entering a club, and UV light hits the dial.

*the lume actually glows blue and let the party begin 🪩*

Thus far, you already know IWC is strong in technical and material innovation. What’s even stronger for me is their aesthetics. Glance, and you can immediately recognise it’s a Big Pilot.

And since this is a Big Pilot, we see the signature 7-days power reserve perfectly integrated within the date sub-dial. My favourite part? Two little plane symbols used for IWC’s patented double-moon phase display, indicating north and southern hemispheres.

*lume off, revealing perlage finishing below*

*lume on, sapphire glass reflects the glow underneath*

Given that it’s a perpetual calendar, it accounts for leap year. Like the original Da Vinci from 1985, IWC gives us the entire year in digits. For your convenience, year 2024 is a leap year so ready your perpetual calendars on 23:59, 28 Feb 2024.

Parting Words

Today, this Klaus-ian perpetual calendar lives on in many other variants, from Pilots to Aquatimer and Portugiesier. What got me really excited was a very understated release in W&W2023 - Portofino Perpetual Calendar. Case size? 40mm. Material? Steel.

*Portofino Perpetual Calendar in steel ref IW344601, pic credit: IWC*

Clean and minimalist, with not a single detail out of place which is actually quite rare. This is IWC’s response to current market’s preferences, where modest case sizes between 38-42mm are much favoured.

After seeing all the Da Vincis and Pilot QPs, you might be looking for the full year display between 7 and 8 o’clock. Well, look carefully and you’ll realise the leap-year indicator is now a small aperture integrated into subdial at 9. Bravo!

While it’s a shame this Portofino QP was overshadowed by the long-awaited release of Ingenieur, I am very optimistic that IWC will find success in this revamped, refined Portofino. Or if dressy isn’t your thing, just wait for a 41mm Pilot QP in white ceramic ;)

Thank you to @jeremy.watches on letting me shoot your amazing Toto BP QP and sharing it with the rest of the world. I hope all of you had a great 2023, and wishing you all the best in 2024.

H60Mins, out.