Vacheron Constantin Chronographs Part II

a brief look at Vacheron’s chronographs from post-millenium to current production models.

In part I, we saw mostly manual-wound dress watch chronographs. From the calatrava-esque ref. 4072 to the very-vacherony (it’s a thing now) ref. 4178, and of course - Cornes de Vache/ref. 6087. Before we jump into its modern equivalent - Historiques CDV 1955 - let us dive into some of Vacheron’s sports chronograph.

1991 - Phidias Chronograph

You probably don’t remember Vacheron’s Calibre 1136 from Part I so here’s a recap. It’s an automatic chronograph movement based on F.Piguet ebauche. In a previous article on Vacheron’s sports model, I also touched on Phidias, a core sports model from early 90s before the venerable Overseas was launched in 1996.

1999 - Overseas I Chronograph

In 1996, the now famous Maltese-cross inspired bezel was born with Gen I Overseas. Within that collection is an automatic chronograph ref. 49140. At a modest 40mm, one might argue it’s probably the perfect size for a sports watch. If you want to know more about Overseas, check out the previous article here: Vacheron Sports Model Part II.

*Overseas I Chronograph ref. 49140, pic credit: grayandsons*

Some signature details are its big date at 12 and screw down pushers, which Vacheron preserved with the next generation of Overseas.

2004 - Overseas II Chronograph

Crossing into the millenium, we see a slight upgrade in both size and design of Overseas Chronograph. Ref. 49150/Gen II increased in size from 40mm to 42mm, and now has a matching maltese-inspired bracelet. Powering this watch is the same movement as Gen I - VC Cal. 1137, a self-winding chronograph with a big date module.

*Overseas II Chronograph, ref. 49150 in 42mm case*

Each time I see it, I feel compelled to say it again - the guilloché dial is absolutely gorgeous to behold which one might say is a predictable outcome when you combine Vacheron’s artistry and finishing. Now, let’s suit up and return to dress watches.

2004 - Malte Chronograph

The Malte collection first started in year 2000, while the chronograph was released 4 years later. Hallmarks of the Malte are very distinct: double-stepped flared lugs, bi-faceted sword hands and even a guilloché dial. The case diameter comes in at 41.5mm which sounds large even by today’s standards, is very much a design of its era. Take a look at its nearest comparable, Patek Philippe’s ref. 5070 which comes in at 42mm.

*Malte Chronograph ref. 47120, pic credits: Sotheby’s*

The comparison with Patek’s ref. 5070 is no astral coincidence though, since the Malte Chronograph also uses the venerable Lemania ebauche Cal. 2310.

The movement is also where I think Vacheron makes a distinction between their own dress and sports models. The latter is mostly (if not all) self-winding, while the former is mostly handwound with an unobstructed view of the entire calibre.

*Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1141, pic credit: Sotheby’s*

Produced until 2009, there were also a few special variants of Malte chronograph such as a 75 piece CEP edition, and a 20 piece limited edition in white gold black guilloché dial for Paris retailer Dubail.

*Malte Chronograph CEP, pic credits: Analogshift*

*Malte Chronograph Dubail edition, pic credit: askme.watch*

2009 - Traditionnelle Chronograph

If you read my very first article on Vacheron’s time-only dress watch, you would know that in 2009, Vacheron cleaved their dress watch segments into Patrimony and Traditionnelle. The latter was in my opinion the spiritual descendant of Malte collection. With that also came Traditionnelle Chronograph ref. 47192.

*Traditionnelle Chronograph ref. 47192, pic credits: govbergwatches*

Bi-faceted dauphine hands, 3-D applied indices and a discreet double-stepped case profile, are some signature hallmarks of Traditionnelle, and you see all that with ref. 47192 as well. Vacheron kept to a modern case size of 42mm which at this point seems a little large for its movement - Cal. 1141.

*Lemania-based Cal. 1141, pic credit: govbergwatches*

2015 - Historiques Cornes de Vache

Alas, we arrive on my favourite modern chronograph that’s still in production today. Whoever designed this watch probably felt the same as Roger Federer when hitting a tennis ball at the center of percussion, otherwise known as ‘Sweet Spot’ on the racquet.

38.5mm case size, 15-🎾.
Perfectly symmetrical subdial layout, 30-🎾.
Lemania chronograph, 40-🎾.
Cornes de Vache lugs, game-set-match.

*Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 ref. 5000H in stainless steel*

Every design detail of ref.5000H is purposeful, and not a sliver of space is wasted on this dial. This Historiques CDV 1955 simply put, is Vacheron at their very best. They added a splash of red on the minute ring and a subtle shade of blue for an elegant contrast to enhance readability.

*A close-up of the dial on my steel ref. 5000H*

If you thought all the genius is on the case and dial, flip the watch around and you will see a familiar sight - Cal. 1142. This time, in a much more balanced case-size to movement ratio.

If Patek made Lemania chronograph hot, then Vacheron is keeping the flame going. When Richemont group purchased 60% stakes in Roger Dubuis in 2008, they also acquired the rights to produce Lemania ebauché Cal.2310.

The rest is as they say, history, or I say historically important, which is what this movement and the Cornes de Vache is to Vacheron.

*Cal. 1142 as seen in my Cornes de Vache*

In 2017, a special collaboration with Hodinkee that saw 36 limited pieces featuring a slate grey dial and pulsograph. Monochromatic love aside, it is the case material that proved to be seminal - stainless steel.

*36 piece limited edition for Hodinkee, ref. 5000H/000A pic credit: hodinkee*

Incidentally, 2015 wasn’t just the birth year of ref.5000H, but also the 260th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. Yes, that also makes them the oldest continuous operating watch maison in the world since 1755 (sorry blancpain). To celebrate this milestone, Vacheron launched their first in-house chronograph - Cal.3300.

2015 - Cal.3300

*Cal. 3300, 260th anniversary edition, pic credit: watchesbysjx*

Cal. 3300 was first featured in the Harmony Chronograph, a monopusher pulsograph to be exact. The fully flourished balance cock you see above is only for 260th anniversary edition. While the Harmony collection is discontinued, we should expect to see more of Cal. 3300 in the near future.

*Harmony Chronograph, 260th anniversary edition, pic credits: watchesbysjx*

My Perspective

Mention high-end chronographs, there is one name that rules them all - Patek Philippe. To be fair, Lange was the earliest to come up with an in-house chronograph back in 1999 - Cal. L951. Patek only launched theirs (Cal. CH29-535) in 2009. That makes Vacheron one of the latest to do so, with Cal. 3300 in 2015. But does being earlier matter?

Patek Cal. 29-535 vs Vacheron Cal. 3300

Of the aforementioned handwound chronos, I have to say Lange probably has the most complex architecture while Vacheron has the finest finishing of them all. If you factor in the dial and case construct, Patek isn’t too far behind ;) See @watchcandies, I’m quite objective after all.

Parting Words

Design is definitely Vacheron’s strong suite. Whether it’s fancy art-deco case, sculpted and sensual lugs, you name it Vacheron has done it. One might argue their creativity is also a bane; with so many varied models it’s hard for us to keep up with all of them. Amongst a smorgasbord of models, a few stars like Cornes de Vache naturally prevailed.

To stand out within chronograph category of the world however, requires more than just style and rehashing legendary calibres. I expect more from Vacheron Constantin, and I’m confident that they will prove me right the day they launch a sub-40mm perpetual calendar stacked atop their their inhouse Cal.3300. Yes, of course with Cornes de Vache lugs. How about that for a dream?