Vacheron Constantin Chronographs Part I

a brief history of VC’s chronographs leading up to current catalogue

*Les Historiques Chronograph Ref. 47101*, *watch belongs to @delugs*

Finally, it’s time for my favourite complication - Chronograph. The TLDR requires me to go into semantics:

Chronograph - an instrument used for measuring and recording time intervals (Merriam-Webster)

Chronos - (in Greek) Time
Graph - (in Greek) To write

Let’s start chronographing.

1916 - The First

*Not alpha, but actually beta. 2nd chronograph wristwatch ever made by VC, pic credit: @TickTalk*

The first chronograph wristwatch produced by Vacheron & Constantin (old signature) was actually in year 1916. The one you see above was the first one to be photographed, produced in 1917. Big thanks to watchprosite moderator, @TickTalk for documenting these info fastidiously. You can find them here: Best of The Hour Lounge: Vacheron & Constantin Wrist Chronographs

Of those years that he documented, allow me to cherry-pick two important years: 1938 and 1940.

1938 - Ref. 4072

You might realise I haven’t flexed like a vintage Patek collector, which means speaking only in reference numbers, or to most lay people - horological gibberish. Jokes aside, these digits (or names) are important when it comes to documentation and consequently easier for collectors or professionals alike to refer to.

That is why 1938 is an important year for Vacheron. It’s the year they started a system of reference numbers to identify every model.

*old advertisement from Vacheron, courtesy of @TickTalk on watchprozine*

This old Vacheron advertisement reminds me of a famous painting by John Trumbull, titled “Declaration of Indepdence”, where the “Committe of Five” composing John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, Robert Livingston, and Roger Sherman was presenting a draft to the Congress (Wikipedia).

*John Trumbull's painting, Declaration of Independence depicting the five-man drafting committee (Wikipedia)*

Each of the 5 models in Vacheron’s old advertisement can be said to be seminal in their own ways, akin to the founding fathers of United States of America. In due time, we will talk about triple calendar (ref. 4240) and minute repeater (ref. 4261). For now, let us focus on the two chronographs shown in the advertisement starting with ref. 4072.

*Ref. 4072 with applied indices and a telemetre sub-track, pic credit: Phillips*

Ref. 4072 is made from 1938 to early 1970s but despite its lengthy production period, around 1138 pieces are created in 3 different metals, yellow gold, rose gold, stainless steel, and a few more in two-tone cases. Check out Peter Toot’s very informative article on this reference: For Your Reference: Vacheron Constantin Reference 4072 Dial Variants.

Some key distinct elements are the flat bezel, elegant lugs and bi-compax subdials that overlaps into the minute ring. For me though, ref.4072’s classic design lacks the usual Vacheron flair. If I may be so audacious, see the comparison with Patek’s ref. 130.

Vacheron ref. 4072 v Patek ref. 130

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pic credits: Sotheby’s and Phillip’s

Swap the logo, and they’re still the same watch. I suppose the head honchos of Vacheron back in the day had a similar epiphany because 2 short years later, Ref. 4178 was born.

1940 - Ref. 4178

“It’s so Vacheron”, is probably the best way I can describe ref. 4178. Those flared lugs are almost as iconic as Patek’s grooved round buttons (Tasti Tondi). The 35mm case might sound small today, but probably considered ‘modern’ back in the day especially with its fancy lugs.

My favourite detail of ref.4178 are those dot indices, which reminds me of the little ‘pearls’ as seen on their Patrimony collection today.

*Ref. 4072 with a tone-on-tone champagne dial, watch belongs to @gael_porte*

Ref. 4178 was produced until 1964, totalling around 500~ pieces across yellow gold, rose gold, steel and two-tone steel/gold.

1940 Reference 4178: This iconic reference was made until 1964. Production as follows:
Calibre 434: 231 pieces in yellow gold and 280 pieces in rose gold
Calibre 492: 114 pieces in yellow gold and 108 pieces in rose gold
The archives state 191 pieces in steel and steel/gold were made but with a 20% error margin - watchprosite, @TickTalk

With ref. 4178, Vacheron found their stride in peak creativity. As we enter the second half of the 20th century, VC released what I think is the most voluptuous chronograph of all time.

1955 - Cornes de Vache

*ref. 6087, nicknamed Cornes de Vache (cow horns), pic credit: escapement magazine*

Even its endearing nickname sounds like an official moniker from VC itself: Cornes de Vache, which literally means ‘Cow Horns’ in French.

When Historiques Cornes de Vache (ref 5000H) was released in 2015, a mere 60 years later, I am still deeply moved by those sensual lugs. More of that in Part II.

*Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel, ref. 5000H*

I can sing praises till the cows come home (get it?) so let me get straight to my point. Ref. 6087 is THE vintage chronograph to have from Vacheron Constantin, assuming you can find one of the thirty-six waterproof pieces ever made. Yes, waterproof because Vacheron knows the prospective owner would probably be sashaying along the beach with an occasional splash of champagne or mai tai.

An interesting aside, not all reference 6087 are made with these curva-licious lugs. Check this out.

*2 pieces of ref. 6087 made in platinum, pic credit: Antiquorum*

As a sort of final run, the last two pieces of ref. 6087 were made in platinum with ‘calatrava’ lugs that we saw in ref. 4072. This one features a pulsation scale, a charming cream-champagne dial and was produced in early 90s, long after the first thirty-six ‘Cow Horns’ were discontinued in mid-60s (@TickTalk). With that, we enter the neo-vintage era of late 80s.

1989 - Ref. 47101

If the 1920s to 30s saw the peak of Art Deco design era for Vacheron, then 1980s to early 90s showcased key technical developments. Vacheron kicked off this phase with a serially produced automatic perpetual calendar, ref. 43031. In 1992, there’s ref. 49005, a perpetual calendar chronograph. The pinnacle of it all is ref. 30020, an ultra-thin minute repeater Calibre 1755, with a perpetual calendar module.

Ref. 49005, Ref. 30020, Ref. 43031
38mm, 37mm, 36mm case diameter, all in platinum

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pic credits: Watchbox, Watchprozine, ACM

As part of Vacheron’s Les Historiques series, ref. 47101 was created as an homage to ref. 4072… NOT! If you were paying attention to the above, you’d spot the mistake. Yes, it’s ref. 4178, not ref. 4072.

ref. 4178 and ref. 47101

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pic credits: mrporter and s.songwatches

Taking a quick glance, you might be hard pressed to identify which is the original vintage chronograph. The immediate way to differentiate is probably the long signature of Vacheron & Constantin. Flared angular lugs, 12 and 6 numerals, bi-compax subdial at 3 and 9. I guess that’s what they call a loyal tribute.

Before you call this a lazy copy, flip ref. 47101 onto its caseback.

*Calibre 1140, Lemania-based movement, watch credit: @delugs*

Breguet, Omega, Roger Dubuis and Patek Philippe are some of the few familiar names who have used this base movement (Cal.2310) from Lemania. Each maison, and Vacheron is no exception, made some modifications and finished the parts to their own exacting standards.

Four-of-a-kind Lemania chronographs, pic credit: acollectedman

Much have been said about the importance of Lemania Cal. 2310. While the other maisons have since moved on and developed their own calibres, Vacheron is the only who still produces a Lemania-based chronograph today with their Cal. 1142. More of that in Part II.

Before moving across the millenium, there are some noteworthy automatic chronographs as well.

1990 - Ref. 47001

Ref. 47001 base calibre 1126 is actually a self-winding JLC ebauche (Cal.889), with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module atop. If you find the left-sided subdial layout familiar, that’s because Audemars Piguet uses the same base movement in their offshores.

While not much is said of this 38mm nifty chronograph, it kickstarted a wave of modular movements at Vacheron, leading up to a grand complication added - perpetual calendar in ref. 49005.

1990 - Ref. 49003

Based on a more capable (and slimmer) Frederic Piguet self-winding chronograph, Vacheron’s Cal 1136 brought back a more familiar subdial layout and even included a date-window at 6 o’clock.

1992 - Ref. 49005

Combining their experience with modular movement construction ala ref. 47001 and F.Piguet base chronograph from ref. 49003, Vacheron created what I think is the most
elegant perpetual calendar chronograph of all time - ref. 49005.

It features a 38mm, two-stepped circular case with straight lugs, just like the two preceding automatic chronographs. Thanks to the very thin F.Piguet chronograph, the whole profile only measures 12mm. As a comparison, Patek’s ref. 3970 comes in at 13mm thick, and isn’t self-winding.

For some reason, ref. 49005 flew under most collectors’ radar. That reason isn’t unknown though. A big part of our love for haute horology is to see all the mechanical parts working like clockwork, literally. That in my view, partially explains the appeal of Patek’s ref. 3970, although I’ll argue further that it’s down to personal preference, and also a ton of marketing.

While Vacheron chose to hide their self-winding chronographs behind a closed caseback, they didn’t spare any expense finishing the parts. Need proof?

*Vacheron Calibre 1136QP as seen in my ref. 49005P*

Thanks to Jordan, Vacheron’s resident watchmaker based in Ion Orchard boutique, I got to see my Cal. 1136QP in real life and was everything I expected, and a little more.

My Perspective

Vacheron Constantin remains relatively unknown to most folks, especially vintage models. Part of this reason in my view is due to their late start with a continuous reference number system, and is partially a reason for Patek’s success. That's also why ref. 4072 and ref. 4178 are mentioned more often when we speak of vintage VC chronographs.

Names matter too. Royal Oak, Cintree, Submariner are some monikers given to models that have gone on to become more iconic than their respective maisons. For Vacheron, it’s their Cornes de Vache but I might be biased, of course.

In Part II, we will look at post-millenium Vacheron chronographs, culminating with ref. 5000H, Historiques 1955 Cornes de Vache. As always, I hope you had a happy time reading.