Vacheron Constantin Calendar Watches Part I

A brief look at Vacheron’s calendar watches, from triple to perpetual calendar.

*ref. 43032 perpetual calendar skeleton, watch credit: Ken @ Delugs*

Alas, we arrive on the first grand complication. If there’s one name synonymous with perpetual calendar, it’s Vach… Okok, it’s Patek Philippe. Well, at least I’m objective. On that impartial note, the triple calendar with a red arrow hand is something that is ‘Very Vacheron’. Let us take a closer look.

1790 - First Calendar

Vacheron Constantin’s very first mechanical calendar was in a much bigger format - a wall clock. Doesn’t mean they can’t make it beautiful. We see a triple subdial layout displaying day, date and time, arguably the 3 most practical information one might ever need.

*Vacheron’s first mechanical calendar, an engraved wall clock, pic credit: horobox*

1884 - First Perpetual Calendar

A few more prosperous decades later, humans decided 29 February was worth keeping track of. In 1884, Vacheron Constantin made their first ever perpetual calendar, this double-faced pocket watch now residing in their private collection. From the front, you see an unassuming time-only display, while the grand complication is hidden from plain sight via a hunter caseback.

*The not-so-plain sight from year 1884, pic credit: masterhorologer*

*The ‘plain’ sight, pic credit: masterhorologer*

As an interesting aside, the first ever perpetual calendar was created by English watchmaker, Thomas Mudge in year 1762. That pocket watch is now in the hands of the venerable Patek Philippe, who won it in an auction in 2016.

The mention of Patek here is not in vain as there is no other watch brand more synonymous with this grand complication. They also lay claim to having the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in year 1925. Vacheron wasn’t snoozing though.

Thomas Mudge’s perpetual calendar in 1762 (left), Patek’s first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925 (right)

1936 - Don Pancho

Vacheron (&) Constantin received a commission request from their Spanish retailer (Brooking Madrid) back in year 1935. The request was made by a fine gentleman by the name of Francisco Llano, but with a much more catchy nickname “Don Pancho”.

This story also reminds me of some timepieces created between Patek Philippe and Henry Graves, or Audemars Piguet and John Shaeffer, special pieces that later took on their owners’ name.

*Vacheron & Constantin, minute repeater retrograde calendar ref 3620, pic credit: Phillips*

Tonneau-case, retrograde date and a unique crown positioning at 12, this historically important watch was ready for delivery by 1936, but was only received by Don Pancho in Jan 1940. You can read the full correspondence as covered by Hodinkee here: Correspondence for Don Pancho.

The Don Pancho is also rumoured to be the first ever wristwatch featuring a retrograde date. Patek came in slightly later in 1937 but upping the ante with a retrograde date perpetual calendar fitted into their iconic Ref. 96, their first ever Calatrava reference.

However, some of you with sharp eyes would realise there’s a special slider on the case of Don Pancho: yes, it’s a minute repeater as well.

*Don Pancho repeater as seen from the movement side, pic credit: Hodinkee*

Safe to say, Vacheron made themselves heard (pun intended) with this piece unique retrograde date minute repeater. Those two gongs weren’t the only hammers that were struck. In 2019, Don Pancho was hammered for CHF740,000 by Phillips. On top of the eye-watering price, it also came with a sprinkle of blessing from the maison - an alternative and brand new dial.

*original and un-restored dial (left), brand new dial on Don Pancho, pic credit: Hodinkee*

1942 - ref. 4240/4241

While the piece unique Don Pancho was no doubt historically important, it was only in the hands of a few, or one to be exact. Vacheron needed to serially produce a model to seriously enter the calendar market. Enter ref. 4240.

*Original Ref. 4240 from 1940s, watch courtesy of @fifteenoclock*

Twin apertures showing day and month, all 31 days circling the perimeter indicated by a red arrow head. This dial layout is almost as iconic as the Cornes de Vache lugs is for Vacheron Constantin.

*red arrow indicating date, watch courtesy of @fifteenoclock*

Glance, and you can almost immediately tell it’s a Vacheron. Almost, because Jaeger-LeCoultre also produced something very similar, and rightfully so since they made the base movement. We love JLC as the maker of watchmakers, but I daresay it’s Vacheron who made the triple calendar layout a signature of their own.

There are two variants of these triple calendar. Ref. 4240 is recognised by its cow horn (cornes de vache) lugs with a case size of 35mm, while ref. 4241 is identified by its teardrop lugs and a slightly larger case size of 36mm.

*ref. 4240L (L for lune/moonphase) and ref. 4241 with sub seconds, pic credit: beyondthedial*

Most watchmakers might focus on the dial but this is Vacheron Constantin. Besides fancy lugs, the most charming trait of ref. 4240 to me are the triple gadrooned case flanks.

*triple gadrooned case flanks, watch courtesy of @fifteenoclock*

It is a detail mostly privy to the wearer, much like driving a BMW M series car. Only its driver will notice blue and red stitching on the inner lining of steering wheel, a nod to BMW’s racing heritage. Riding on the high of this now iconic ref. 4240, Vacheron reified the triple calendar layout and its red arrow hand with the next reference.

1943 - ref. 4293

*Ref. 4293, minute repeater with triple calendar, pic credit: Vacheron Constantin*

Created in 1943 this triple calendar and minute repeater is a timeless icon because of its case size - 38mm - which was probably considered an anomaly back in the 40s but is absolutely perfect today. Did I mention it’s also a minute repeater?

Only two were ever made, and one still resides in the deepest vaults of Vacheron Constantin. Interestingly, the other watch was only sold in 1957, 14 years after it was crafted. Point is, ref. 4293 cemented the importance of triple calendar for Vacheron themselves, and to the rest of the world.

1983 - Ref. 43031/43032

*Ref. 43032, skeletonised version of 43031, watch credit: Ken @Delugs*

If ref. 4293 is the most important vintage watch for Vacheron, then this self-winding perpetual calendar ref. 43031 is the most important neo-vintage watch for VC. Released in 1983, this watch kickstarted a slew of high-end complications from Vacheron, a sort of ‘f**k you’ to the quartz crisis, albeit in a much more aristocratic manner befitting of the La Grande Dame.

In the same period (1978 to 1985), the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking put up a concerted effort in showcasing the prowess of mechanical watches in a relatively large production.

3-of-a-kind automatic QP
Vacheron ref. 43031, AP ref. 25657, Patek ref. 3940

36mm case size across all three watches, pics credit: acollectedman

Putting aside who came first (AP -1978) and who came latest (Patek - 1985), the message to the world was very clear: Swiss Haute Horology isn’t going anywhere. If you want to know more about ref. 43031, check out this very informative article from the talented writers of Watchbrotherslondon here: Vacheron Ref. 43031/43032.

I am very fortunate to know someone close to me, both in proximity and intimacy (🤔) who has the skeletonised perpetual calendar, ref. 43032. Thank you, Ken for letting me shoot this gorgeous watch.

*Ref. 43032, watch credit: Ken @ Delugs*

Skeletonisation is an Art that deserves its own article and just like Art, appreciation is very subjective. While I personally prefer skeletonisation of time-only watches, there is no greater visual awe than seeing the multitude of moving parts working together like a well-rehearsed orchestra.

The lapis lazuli moon disc is my favourite detail of ref. 43032. Thanks to the openworked dial, it glows up with this photo, like stars reflecting off a night lake.

When you’re done being gobsmacked from the dial, flip the watch over to the caseback and be in awe again. “Ah, the rotor is skeletonised too”, which is also why light can glow through the lapis lazuli moon disc. Well played, Vacheron Constantin.

*Cal. 1120/1 QP-SQ, perpetual calendar squelette, watch credit: Ken @ Delugs*

My Perspective

If Patek is Perpetual, then Vacheron is triple calendar. It’s a bold claim, but one that I can say with confidence. In Part II of calendar watches, we will explore post-90s calendar watches from Vacheron, including my personal favourite - Historiques Triple Calendar 1942.

Once again, big thanks to @fifteenoclock and Ken @delugs on letting me photograph their ref. 4240 and ref. 43032 respectively.