Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches Part II
The birth of Overseas (I) in 1996, to current production Overseas (III) 2016~
Vacheron Constantin Overseas (Gen III) Tourbillon ref. 6000V
After exploring the nascent years of Vacheron’s sports watch development, let us now look at the birth and evolution of their flagbearer - Overseas.
Gen I (1996-2004)
In 1996, Vacheron unveiled the seminal ‘Overseas’ ref. 42040 to the world. Gone was the bottle-cap or scalloped bezel of 222, replaced by 8 ‘blade-like’ notches inspired by the arms of their Maltese cross.
Overseas (Gen I) ref. 42040, stainless steel, blue dial, 37mm. Pic credit: Hodinkee
Vacheron went back to using the tried-and-tested tonneau case shape of the 222. It also shares the same 37mm case diameter as ‘222’. The bracelet has a continuous middle link running through the entire chain, a familiar design inspired by its predecessor - Phidias.
If you’re curious to know more about this First Generation Overseas, I highly recommend checking out watchbrotherslondon’s very informative write-up on the various variants here: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-vacheron-constantin-overseas-1st-generation-ref-42040-42042-and-ref-42050-42052
In its 8 years of production (until 2004), ref. 42040 did more than just introduce a bold new look for Vacheron Constantin’s sports watch category. They came up with a proper model name that is used until today, which I would argue is important for any brand serious about extending a product’s longevity.
Gen II (2004-2016)
Kickstarting this generation is the three-hander ref. 47040, available in either black or white dial, both sporting an intricate guillochage. There is also a strap variant in rose gold and smooth grey dial.
Gen II Overseas ref. 47040, pic credit: monochromewatches.
Ref. 47040 in rose gold, pic credit: swisswatchexpo. Notice something different on the dial?
Case Design
At 42mm diameter x 9.7mm thick, the already striking bezel from Gen I is now even bolder in Gen II. It is very much a watch of its time where sports watches have wrist presence ala Offshore/Panerai. But Vacheron Constantin as we know, is not one to (merely) follow others.
While the bezel still has 8 ‘blades’, the crown guards from Gen I are removed and replaced with a little notch at 3 o’clock. This makes the overall case shape more elegant, especially when switched onto a strap.
However, the biggest success factor of Gen II Overseas has got to be the brand new bracelet design.
Gen I ref. 42040 v Gen II ref. 47040
Gen II Overseas Chronograph, ref. 49150. Check out that amazing guilloché dial.
Bracelet
Each generation of Overseas has a major success design element. For Gen I ref. 42040, it was the introduction of the bold and very recognisable bezel. For Gen II Overseas, its most distinguishable element has to be the new bracelet. Just look at how congruent it now flows with the entire case.
Gen II Overseas chronograph, ref. 49150, pic credits: Watchbox
As its name suggests, an integrated-bracelet sports watch is (almost) all about the bracelet. Too often, great dial and case designs are let down by a cheap bracelet. To be clear, ‘cheap’ refers to how the watch feels on our wrists. It’s tough to describe, but some bracelets are flimsy and rickety. Try on a vintage bracelet to know what I mean. That’s the main reason why I love the “222”. Even a vintage and original ref. 44018 still feels very robustly built, which is more science than art.
check out the sharp inward angles of each link
What about the ‘art’ part? To me, having great design is tough. To have a great and original design is even tougher, almost requiring a stroke of genius. That’s exactly what this re-designed bracelet was, looking even more masculine than ever with those sharp inward angles. I cannot imagine how difficult it is to polish each link though.
I’d also like to specially mention my favourite detail of this model - the Grande Date sitting above Vacheron’s logo at 12.
Grande Date of my ref. 49150
Besides aesthetic enhancements, Gen II Overseas also improved on technical aspects by introducing anti-magnetism. The movement is encased inside a soft iron cage, which is further protected by a closed-caseback.
While it’s a pity we can’t see the finely-finished movement, what we get in return is an intricately engraved depiction of a 3-masted ship, an homage to the famous Italian navigator, Amerigo Vespucci who was the first to discover the ‘New World’ continent.
Special Variants
Before moving onto Gen III, there are some special variants that must be mentioned. Most of us are well acquainted with the Titanium and Steel combo popularised by Gen III Overseas ‘Everest’. Actually, Vacheron already had this combo with the ‘Deep Stream’ editions back in 2010.
Overseas Dual Time Deep Stream ref.47450, pic credit: watchbox
While I normally dislike two-tone watches, this dark grey on light grey combination just exudes effortless coolness given how ‘stealthy’ the matte grey titanium bezel is. This ‘Deep Stream’ aesthetic ran the whole gamut of Gen II Overseas, from time-only, chronograph and even a perpetual calendar chronograph. Yes, a grand complication in sports watch. Check out this very special blue dial Overseas Perpetual Chronograph.
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, watch and pic courtesy of a dear friend: @925watches
This 20 pieces limited edition was released in 2011 for NYC boutique. While it may not be unusual today, it was a first for Vacheron to have a grand complication in their steel sports watch, and a double complication no less. With the launch of Gen III Overseas however, you will see that grand complications are more of a norm than exception. And on that note…
Gen III (2016~ )
Gen III Overseas Tourbillon ref. 6000V in stainless steel
Back in 2016 when Gen III Overseas ref. 4500V was launched, it took the world by storm. Ok, maybe not the whole world, just the watch one. And ok, maybe not by storm but everyone else sat up and paid attention. Vacheron redefined what it meant to be consumer-centric with their interchangable bracelet-strap system.
1 watch 3 ways
This was massive in every sense. Back in 2016, Vacheron was one of the earliest maisons to offer 2 other strap options with each full bracelet watch. Before that and still happening today, other brands are touting strap versions as a separate purchase. You need not be an Economics genius to understand why.
Since then, many other brands have jumped onto this bandwagon such as Cartier (Santos), Bell & Ross (BR05) and even Audemars Piguet (Offshores).
While some might argue the essence of ‘Integrated’ can only be preserved when an iconic bracelet is kept on its case, one thing is undeniable - the utility and consequent enjoyment of a (sports) watch is doubled.
No bracelet? No problem. Overseas QP ref. 4300V with 3 strap options.
Besides changing the game and straps, Vacheron also made minor tweaks to the overall design of Overseas.
Case Design
Like Gen II, Vacheron kept the same tonneau-shape case for Gen III except this time the bezel has 6 instead of 8 ‘arms’ of Maltese cross. Less sharp edges meant the overall look is less aggressive, and more elegant. Another omission is the notch at 3 o’clock, leaving the crown unadorned.
Ref. 47040 vs Ref. 4500V
Dial Design
I imagine the designer (Vincent Kaufmann) at Vacheron’s manufacture has a banner with the word ‘Elegance’ displayed prominently in their studio. They got rid of the chunky arabic numerals from Gen II, replacing them with all baton markers. The pencil-hands are now much slimmer in ref. 4500V, and to my delight the words ‘Automatic’ and ‘Antimagnetic’ are removed. Looking at you, Mr Superlativechronometerofficiallycertified.
The best part? Yes, it’s the date window which is now at 3 o’clock instead of between 4/5. All of these reduction and minimalising is for one sole purpose - glorious view of pristine blue dial.
While I like the guilloché of Gen II Overseas, you can argue that it’s probably a tad common given that the Other two Trinity brethren uses it. Truth is, when I first saw Vacheron’s blue dial, I thought it was a little too flashy, too outlandish. And then I saw it shimmering under the sun. Nuff’ said.
Overseas Dual Time ref. 7900V bathing in the alpine sunrays
Let’s have a look at some interesting variants of Gen III Overseas, starting with Dual Time complication. Vacheron’s Overseas Everest editions needs no further introduction, a tribute to the feats of mountaineer Cory Richards. Besides the sporty orange accents, there’s also the matte grey titanium bezel which if you remember, is similar to that of Gen II’s Deep Stream series.
It’s not all the same though. Look carefully and you might spot a difference between the standard dual time and the Everest one - crown guards. (thanks @the.d.max for sharing!)
7900V vs 7910V
pic credit: Vacheron Constantin
Besides the gorgeous blue dial, there is also a silver and black dial for ref. 4500V that are still in production today.
Besides the 3 standard colours, there’s a brown dial released in 2016 which is discontinued a year later.
A lovely shade of brown, produced only for a year, pic credit: watchtime
If you force me to pick my favourite variant of time-only Overseas, I will tell you ref. 2000V. Wait, you didn’t force me? I’ll tell you anyway. It’s an ultra-thin, two-hander, date-less Overseas with a discreet grey dial and blue accents.
Overseas Ultra-thin, ref. 2000V, pic credit: watchonista
The standard ref. 4500V measures 41mm x 11mm thick, while ref. 2000V measures 40mm x 7.5mm thin, thanks to the ultra-thin Calibre 1120. Yes, the same one inside AP Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ ref. 15202, both of which are based on JLC’s calibre 920 ebauche. Which brings us to the next point -
Movement
New watch, new movement. Beating inside ref. 4500V is Vacheron’s new in-house Calibre 5100.
Cal. 5100 beating inside 4500V, pic credit: deployant
Cal 5100 is a modern day movement that is as technically capable as it is beautiful. 28,800 VPH, 150m water resistance, 60 days power reserve and 1 gorgeous rotor inspired by the wind rose. All of these parts are as always, finished to meet the standards of Geneva Seal.
Chronographs, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and retrograde moon phase are the other variants of Overseas today (2023). I will elaborate on these models individually with a separate article.
Overseas QP Ref. 4300V / Overseas Chrono Ref. 5500V / Overseas Retrograde Moon Ref. 4000V
pics credit: Vacheron Constantin
My Perspective
If there’s one thing you cannot say of Vacheron, is stagnant. From Part I, we saw their very first integrated bracelet watch ref. 2215 in 1976, and then the birth of “222”. To avoid cannibalising with the existing sports model Overseas, the re-issue of 222 today is now branded under their ‘Historiques’ collection. For me as well, ref. 2215 is the spiritual ancestor of Vacheron’s sports category, which I will compare here.
Ref. 2215 vs Ref. 4500V
1976 vs 2016
pics credit: Vacheron Constantin
Then, let’s look at the two other iconic sports watches, Patek’s Nautilus and AP’s Royal Oak.
Nautilus ref. 3700/1 vs Nautilus ref. 5811/G
1976 vs 2023
pics credit: Sotheby’s and Patek Philippe
Royal Oak ref. 5402 vs Royal Oak Ref. 16202
1972 vs 2022
pics credit: Sotheby’s and AP
Yes, I am well aware of the old adage: ‘Why fix something that isn’t broken?’ That’s also why Vacheron retained most design elements when re-issuing the modern ‘222’ (ref. 4200H). The Overseas however has had many tweaks along the way. Today in 2023 and 7 years since the current Gen III was launched, Vacheron is still changing. Mind you, not just modifying aesthetics, but actually improving utility. Case in point?
Bracelet Connectors (2023 vs 2016)
Check out the connector for their interchangable bracelet. Instead of the slim and sharp flange (right) which is difficult to latch on, Vacheron created a new connector (left) that is more notch than flange. Now, you can simply use the fleshy tip of finger to unhook the connector. Manicurists rejoice! 💅
Parting Words
Some great designs are born from luck and genius. Not Vacheron and certainly not with Overseas. Its current popularity is no happy accident, but a careful distillation of iconic design elements over the years. While it is no longer as discreet as before, I am glad Vacheron and specifically their Overseas attained its rightful status as an icon. As always, I hope you had a happy time reading this 2-part series on Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches.
